Are Corn snakes poisonous?
We want to build a very large terrarium and want to put a
python, boa and two corn snakes together, can we?
Should I buy a baby or adult corn snake?
Are corn snakes aggresive and do they bite?
We were wondering how to you tell the gender of a corn snake?
Is it okay to put two snakes of the same gender in the same
tank or two of different gender in the same tank?
Do you have to feed them live prey? Can they live off of
live grasshoppers
only?
My python has a bad scar on his back where he got to close
to a heat lamp.
Do you know anything about unusual markings? My cornsnake
has developed a
mark down his back that looks like a dark scab. He has had it for about
6
months, during which time he has not shed. He is now developing several
similar-colored smaller spots on his underside. Do I need to worry? At
first I thought it was an injury but the spreading has me worried.
I just wonder if cornsnake have teeth or no teeth? sorry,
maybe a stupid question?
I am doing a biology report for school and I would like to
ask how does a snake breath while it swallows a mouse bigger than its
body?
I was looking at your website and wondering what type of
plants you use for shelter and hiding areas? And if they are real or fake.
Are Corn snakes poisonous?
No, Corn snakes are not poisonous. They belong to the smaller species
of constrictors. They grab their prey and will constrict it with their
body. This constriction takes approximately 15 to 30 seconds until the
prey is dead.
You can follow the process when you visit index photos - feeding in my
website.
Poisonous snakes have two large teeth like big fangs to grab their prey
and inject the venom.
Constrictors have multiple small teeth only to grab and hold their prey.
Note: Still not being poisonous, very rare, but like every animal a corn
can bite. This means whenever a snake, in this case a corn would bite
you, I would advice to treat (disinfect) the wound because it can get
infected by the bacteria from the snakes mouth.
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We want to build a very large terrarium
and want to put a python, boa and two corn snakes together, can we?
Difficult question, and yes books don't speak about this subject because
mostly paragraphs in books only speaks about the specie itself but.
I can help you with some basic rules, some facts I experienced and some
analyses of the books.In some books I have (and I checked) you can read
for example:
=>Python regius (King python) can be kept with max two in a terrarium
=>Corn snakes max 3 in a terrarium.
A basic rule to know how big a terrarium must be: When you know the length
of your snake when he or she will be adult, you take 2/3 th of this length
as the length of your terrarium and 1/3 th as depth. The height depends
on the species.
This will result in a terrarium where the snake can crawl around and more
special have some hiding places, a warm place and a cooler place. When
you add 1 snake you add 30% on length and depth.
When you make the calculation for 4 snakes which can become 3 meter.
Normally 4 terra of 2 meter by 1 meter, gives a total surface of 4 meter
by 2 meter.
All snakes together in one terr using the 30% rule:
2 (+30%) = 260 (+30%) = 338 (+30%) = 439
1 (+30%) = 130 (+30%) = 169 (+30%) = 220
Results in a 440 by 220 surface. A little bit larger. On one side of this
terrarium you should provide a hot zone and a cooler zone on the other
end …… Snake will go to the hotter zone, resulting all snake
on a smaller surface. This will create stress. They will not eat each
other but can give nasty bites. The mentioned measurements are luxurious,
making the tanks smaller only worsen the problem.
Finally, this. A friend of me had a dream and realized it. A terrarium on the second floor of his house. Actually, two rooms big (removed the middle wall). When you go upstairs you have a view on the two rooms from the corridor because he placed glass windows inside. In these two room, which became one, he has 5 pythons and 4 boa. With the calculation this surface is more than enough. Sometimes you can have an aggressive snake but 9 is no coincidence. They don't tolerate anybody in the room because they are very alert to things that cross their territory.
Conclusion for me: No, I wouldn't put all snakes together. A lot of practical
reason not mentioned here will prove this.
Sometimes when you can find the right answer I always say "think
logic" and very often I try to find the answer in nature itself.
Snakes are solitaire creature, live single because this improves their
survival change (finding prey to eat …) they only meet and for a
very short time to mate and each one disappears immediately
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Should I buy a baby or adult corn
snake?
I would suggest to buy a young snake +/- 6 to 8 weeks. In this case you
are sure to have a young snake and have plenty of years of pleasure. When
You buy an adult snake it is difficult to know the age and the store can
say what he wants. And when you find an adult snake in a store it is maybe
because it has a problem.
Conclusion: Young snake. Also important is that you can see the snake
grow .
One of the things you must look for is if he eats. You can check if he
has eaten if he has a big lump in his body, or ask the store to hold a
baby mouse in front of the snake. When the snake flicks his tong or want
to approach the mouse everything is OK.
Don't let them to feed the snake because it is best to leave it undisturbed
the first 24 hours. Also for you: when you introduce your snake in your
cage at home, don't try to feed him the first two days. Let him adapt
to his new cage and prevent stress. Don't handle the young snake the first
two weeks.
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Are corn snakes aggresive and do
they bite?
Fact is that Corn snakes are very tame, sweet and friendly. But when I
said rare I mean: it always can happen but the possibility is 1 in 1.000.000.
It's good to know that there is that possibility so you are prepared that
there is no danger and the disinfection off the possible wound is enough.
I work with snakes for 10 years now. I had a big Boa constrictor and several
other snakes. In those ten years I never have been bitten.
The reason is because I now when and how to handle the snakes.
I give you an example how a friendly snake could bite you. The reason
will be because it's the owners fault:
Your snake is in his shedding face. She almost will be blind because her
old skin is white and covering her sight. You decide to feed your snake
and introduce a defrosted mouse. The snake is smelling the mouse and try
to grab it. By mistake she could grab your finger. Also possible is that
you touched a mouse and want to remove the snake from it's cage. The snake
is very hungry and recognizes the mouse smell. Again the snake could take
your finger as a mouse. Conclusion is that these things can happen because
the owner or handler went wrong. Why? Don't feed a snake in her shedding
period. Wash your hands between handling a mouse and a snake.
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We were wondering how to you tell
the gender of a corn snake?
There are 4 ways to determine the gender of a snake. Unfortunately only
one will give you the correct answer and the other three will be successful
if you have a lot of experience. I will describe the four possible methods
1. When the snakes are very young you can hold them in front of a light
bulb (not to hot ! ! !) and detect or see the hemipenes (for male). When
you have missing reds the view is very clear.
Problem: You can get the best results if you have several snakes because
you can compare. If you don't know what to look for a male can be seen
as a female.
…. Experienced persons ! !
2. Plopping: Also performed with young snakes: With a little practice,
the hemipenes of baby corns can be manually everted by gentle pressure
applied by the thumb from the tail forward towards the vent. They usually
appear pink or red, but may also look pail whitish or nearly clear.
Problem: Not performing this technique properly can result in false gender
detection.
…. Experienced persons ! !
3. The tail can indicate the gender but again comparing several snakes
can give you the answer. Males' tails run thicker for the first couple
inches just past the vent, whereas females' tail-bases taper quickly,
starting right past that point.
4. Probing. The best result is probing and is best done when you snakes
is one year old. In a female (top of photo), the sexing probe will barely
enter the tail area. In a male (bottom ), it will penetrate to a depth
at least equal to four times the width of the tail.
Problem: This must be performed by experienced persons because incorrect
probing can perforate the snake.
Don't go to a vet but ask your pet-store (rep-store) to do it. Here in
Belgium they don't charge you money for this one minute intervention.
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Is it okay to put two snakes of
the same gender in the same tank or two of different gender in the same
tank?
I keep my two female corn snakes in one tank. An
overview:
Mail + mail or female + female:
No problem because there is no competition.
1 male + 2 females
no problem because there is no competition between females.
2 males + 1 female
Problems during the mating season because of the competition between the
males resulting in aggressive behaviour.
IMPORTANT: When you introduce several snakes in one tank, you must provide
a shelter or hiding place for each snake.
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Do you have to feed them live prey?
Can they live off of live grasshoppers
only?
Corn snakes only live off of rodents. They eat mostly mouse and occasionally
small rats. They will start eating pinkeys after their first shed. As
they grow they will eat, fuzzys, springers, adult mouse and finally young
rats.
Alive or dead is up to you to decide. When you have a young corn snake,
you can learn them to eat dead prey.
In my website : information-page "feeding" and index photo you
can find more info on feeding, how, when and what.
Corn snakes don't eat insects, so grasshoppers is not on the menu.
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My python has a bad scar on his
back where he got to close to a heat lamp.
As I read many books on snakes and explored the internet, I always was
confronted with the warnings and cautions but never found a solution.
I developed many systems to protect the snakes but the outcome with these
systems was that the spots always got overheated and their heat didn't
get into the terrarium but cumulated in the protective caps.
I found a solution and would like to share it with you. It is possible
to build or create it yourself. You only need a perforated aluminium sheet,
some rivets and some patience.
I took some detailed photos and hope you can copy these protective caps.
Besides their protective function you will also notice that they will
dim the light which will create a more natural view in your terrarium
and the heat still disperses.
Do you know anything about unusual
markings? My cornsnake has developed a
mark down his back that looks like a dark scab. He has had it for about
6
months, during which time he has not shed. He is now developing several
similar-colored smaller spots on his underside. Do I need to worry? At
first I thought it was an injury but the spreading has me worried.
Mostly, colored spots indeed indicate infected injuries or burned scabs.
But reading your story, I notice something special: the shedding …
I don't know how old your corn snake is but it should shed more frequently.
Even being an adult, your corn should shed every 3 months if well fed
and not in hibernation.
Other possibility is to much humidity. I'll try to explain both situations,
so you can check your cage and compare. If neither of these match we search
for a third possibility.
1. Corn snakes don't need to much humidity. A waterbowl to drink or have
a bath is sufficient. It's good to spray your cage when the snake comes
close to shedding, still not necessary. Some people keep their cages moist
because they think snakes need this for their skin. Wrong, my snakes are
living in very low humidity and their skin shines, indicating their health.
If you cage is to moist this will increase bacterial cultures in your
cage which will infect the scabs and as you said expand.
If this is the case: remove your substrate and replace it temporarily
with paper (newspaper is perfect) and increase your temperature. These
two elements will absorb humidity from skin and higher temp will kill
bacteries. Markings on the skin will disappear after a few sheds.
2. Second possibility; no shedding in 6 months?? As I said before too
much humidity is wrong, but a dessert cage is also a problem.
Question is if your cage isn't to dry, not to warm, is there a bathing
possibility, isn't your snake dehydrated because she doesn't drink. A
lot of questions, but if your answer is yes to one or few of them, it
could be the reason. Why?
All these mentioned elements are contributing to shedding problems. It
seems it is your case. What happens is that new skin is developing under
the old skin. This new skin which should dry after shedding is kept humid
because of the presence of the old skin. And again … to humid skin
will infect and rot …. So we are in situation 1.
In this situation the solution is different because we must get rid of
the old skin ASAP. Perhaps she has shed recently, but at this moment there
already can be a new skin present.
If the shedding problem is your answer, soak your snake few times a day
(+/- 5 minutes) in water +/- 30°C. See if there's enough rough material
present which helps her shed. Clean your waterbowl daily and give daily
fresh water. Check your temp Max 28°C during the day is OK.
Not mentioned: remove excrements daily … gives infections.
I wouldn't worry to much, as long as your snake eats. You should be able
to solve the problem (reason of) and the skin will restores herself after
a few sheds.
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I just wonder if cornsnake have
teeth or no teeth? sorry, maybe a stupid question?
First a remark: There are no stupid question, only stupid answers.
And yes; corn snakes have teeth.
As they are constrictors they have two rows on the upper and lower site
of their mouth. They use these teeth to hold on the prey (mouse) while
they constrict with their body.
As you know Corns are not poiseness but you must be careful. They rarely
bite, but whenever it happens it's important to disinfect the wound because
a snakes mouth is a nest of bacteria's
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I am doing a biology report for
school and I would like to ask how does a snake breath while it swallows
a mouse bigger than its body?
Snakes have a breathing tube. With mammals the trachea
starts in the throat. With snakes the trachea is prolonged in the mouth.
When you observe a snake who is eating a prey, you can notice that she
will make a zig-zag movement with her mouth. I explain. She grabs the
prey with the right side of her mouth, moving the breathing tube to the
left. The tube then will move to the right will she uses the left side
of her mouth to bring in the prey. I don't have a photo of a corn showing
this breathing tube, I add a photo, a boa constrictor, showing this tube.
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I was looking at your website
and wondering what type of plants you use for shelter and hiding areas?
And if they are real or fake.
I use real and fake plants. To be honest, I always used fake plants but
started this year with real plants, only to try it out. The result is
not satisfying because the plants must be strong, be able to have high
temperatures and not to much humidity. The plants I used were supposed
to handle these situations but no, they didn't. Another reason why I am
removing the real plants is that they are difficult to clean when contaminated
with excrements.
So I advice to use fake or artificial plants. Which ones ??? I mostly
look to the effectiveness as to shelter and hide then the origin or name,
because mostly fake plants don't have names on the labels.
Some basic rules:
Young snake => a lot off plants
Adult => less
Look for plants which can cover an area instead of a skinny colorfull
plastic flower.
Don't waste to much money on plants in the beginning. I have set up my
two new cages and neither am happy with the view. It took me a while with
the other terrarium as well. Step by step I reorganize until I am satisfied.
Don't exaggerate because finally you must remove plants as the snake grows.
In order of importance:
1. Hygiene
2. Temperature
3. Shelter in the right place
4. Few extra hiding places.
5. The aesthetic view of your cage
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My snake has not eaten for about
9 weeks. It's a male , 4 years old. It shedd it's skin about 3 weeks ago.
the temp in the place is kept about 70°F at night and 80°F during
the day. What could be wrong with it?
The temperatures are OK. Fact that your snake recently shed is a good
sign and shows that she was in good health at least three weeks ago.
With the information you give, I think there are several possibilities.
1. Do you feed your snake in it's cage and do you use bark or some equivalent
on the cage floor. If you do, the possibility can be that she took a piece
of bark inside while eating his prey. This unfortunately can end with
the dead of your snake. Because it forms a block in the digestion of the
snake. Solution … follow the treatment in para.2… sometimes
it works as well for this problem.
2. When a snake is constipated it also will stop eating. Check if she
produced faeces and feel in front of the cloacae if it is swollen and
hard Give it a bath. Use something with a lid. Let the snake swim for
several minutes (+/-10). When she was constipated this treatment helps.
You may repeat it a few times. … also a possibility for para.1.
3. Stress: Did you handle your snake immediately after eating and the
following days. Did she regurgitate? If yes. Let her rest for a few weeks
and try again. Fact is that your snake can live without food for several
months … provide fresh water every day! ! !
4. If he produced faeces within the last few days, try to look for worms
or parasites. If yes you must consult a vet to identify and proscribe
the correct medicine.
5. Main thing now is not to handle your snake to much and you also can
try this. Put your snake in a small dark box. Introduce a dead prey. The
diameter of the prey not bigger then the maximum diameter of your snake.
Don't disturb the snake for at least 2 hours. When you check and she ate
the prey, stress was the disturbing factor.
6. Check your snake for ticks and mites. These two parasites also can
be the reason why your snake stops eating
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This may be stupid but I have
been concerned. My 13 year old has had a corn snake for about 2 1/2 years
and we now have a one year old in the house and a new baby arriving in
January. I sometimes fear for the smaller children, my son says this is
crazy but I cannot help but worry if it is a danger to the small children.
The snake has gotten out of his cage on occasion. What is your opinion?
Worried mother.
Let me first say that being concerned is never stupid, especially when
it concerns a baby.
I could answer your question with some question.
Replace the word snake by, cat, dog or parrot. Could these animals harm
your baby?
Answer; some will say no, some will say yes. My answer for this is and
I had a dog: Know your animal, but never forget it is an animal.
This brings me to your snake.
Reptiles are different. But some stories brought them in a picture being
dangerous aggressive creatures and everybody heard the stories about a
snake eating a baby (a net python), baby killed by a snake (a poison snake).
Fact that your sun (13 year) has this corn and I suppose handles it proves
for me this is a gentle one. When it would be aggressive even your sun
wouldn't like to keep the snake.
Corn snakes by nature never attack and even when stressed or harmed will
flee.
When he would change it's mind, he will warn you and would rattle his
tale (same as rattle snake, but without sound).
When it would bite, it will be a warning bite (not grabbing). But these
are behaviours of an aggressive wild caught corn!
In your case I would not be concerned for danger. But still, would avoid
that the snake is alone with the baby, because in my opinion there is
more danger for the snake than the baby. The baby could roll over the
snake …
When your baby is exploring it's new world, I would introduce it to the
beauty of reptiles and already start to teach what to do and what to avoid.
Am I wrong when I replaced the snake by a dog … How many accidents
happen, due to the fact that parents didn't take their responsibility,
and didn't learn their children how to behave with their animal. At the
end, the dog is the perpetrator and finally the victim.
I hope my reply, takes away your worries. There is no danger.
A final comment. You write that on occasion the snake has got out of
his cage. Avoid this happens. Escaping of reptiles gives a bad image to
the hobby … this is your son's responsibility … a good lesson
for life.
Go to Questions
Three weeks ago I bought a corn
snake and then two weeks ago I bought one
more, they were eating well to start with but the last two times they
have
regurgitated the pinkies and now they wont eat at all, they also seem
cold
to the touch, could this be it?. I have put two hides in the terrarium,
one
on the mat end and one at the other, they prefer the one not on the heat
mat. What am I doing wrong?
Let's try by elimination find a solution for your problem.
Fact that the snakes feel cold to the touch is normal. They are cold-blood
animals and compared with our body-temperature they give a cold feeling.
Put your hand in 25°C water … it feels cold … still 25°C
isn't a low or cold temperature.
I presume that your cage temperatures are within limit, especially respecting
the minimums. See my site (caresheet-housing) and would suggest to higher
the temperature for now and the coming next weeks. This will increase
the working of the digestion system.
Installing some hiding places is a step in the right direction and don't
worry if they only prefer one. Snakes are thermo-regulators and decides
their self which is the best temperature at the moment … maybe after
a few months they will move to the other shelter.
Ok, now the possible reasons and some solutions for your problem.
I suppose you bought two young snakes (hatchlings) and the fact that they
both have this problem eliminates for now that they have an abnormal swelling
in their stomach preventing the food to pass.(… for more info my
site caresheet-medical).
Possibility 1:
Handling snakes and in this case young snakes to much will result in stress.
This stress mostly results in regurgitating. Don't disturb your snakes
and especially avoid to handle them. Check this: observe your snakes and
see if they are breeding heavily. You should see 30% off the body pumping.
If this is the case … stress, because they are afraid.
Possibility2:
Overfeeding and size of the prey. See my site (caresheet-feeding). Try
to find and feed them very small pinkies. 1 to 5 days old if possible.
Be sure that the pinkies are well defrosted before feeding! … Overfeeding:
Observe, the snakes will start hunting for food (especially during the
night) and introduce food 2 days later. There is no problem when you don't
offer them food for a week.
Possibility 3:
For me the reason:
When you bought hatchlings, they probably were born late November (second
breeding: 1st in June, 2nd in Oktober). Your snakes might be +/- 6 weeks
old. When snakes are born, breeders introduce them in small separate boxes.
Two reasons, avoiding cannibalism and stress. This will result in youngsters
start feeding easier, assuring them not to sell non-feeders to the client.
In your case: You first bought one snake, which already was influenced
by the changing of habitat … stress, if it wasn't enough, the presence
of a second snake one week later increased the problem. The second snake
during the change was immediately confronted with a other snake and a
new habitat which may have been disturbed to much. They have been searching
for a non-present hiding place, their environment was suddenly changed
by the presence of a shelter etc …..
A solution is to keep the snakes separate. I always keep hatchlings separated
until they are +/- 6 months old and are used to my presence and accept
food without hesitation, very often offered by hand. Then I can put them
together and I always wait a week before offering food until they accept
the new situation.
Don't do a to big investment for a second cage. A small cage will do the
job. Young snakes prefer smaller cages because the limited size (which
they have investigated) will assure them there are no enemies in the neighbourhood.
A large cage will make them feel uncomfortable. This is a typical problem
with spiders, which also makes them aggressive and stop eating.
Also check if they can find their drinking -bowl, place it close to the
shelter and ! change water every two days !
What you have to do for now: Separate the snakes, don't handle (only if
necessary), higher the temperatures (minimum 22°C) during the night.
Something I forgot … be sure you are not overheating your cage !
! !
Don't feed them for 5-7 days and see if they are searching for food. Then
offer very small prey and again, wait 5-7 days. Feed again and they should
produce faeces immediately after feeding the second time … the result
of the bodywork they did to eat the prey. Movement influences the digestion
system.
Try by elimination find a reason … Possibility 1…2…3…
Check for mites and ticks
Don't be worried to much, because they already have eaten, an or some
prey, they are strong enough to survive a long period without food.
Go to Questions
I have a snake that's been with
me from 8/19/02 and it has grown just a little. He is about 18 inches
or more. Now how long should I feed the snake pinks because I have about
45 of them and they can't go to waste when do I go up in size?
It's difficult to say when you must give bigger and larger prey, because
everything depends on the grow rate of your snake but I can give you some
basic rules which should help you answering your question:
Maximum prey-size to offer your snake is that the prey's diameter is
not bigger than the maximum diameter of your snakes body.
Minimum, I would not go smaller with the prey diameter than ½ (50%)
of the snakes maximum body diameter, because it will have problems to
swallow the prey.
At this moment you should give one prey every 3 to 4 days. But as I explain in my website (feeding), observation gives you the best info when to feed.
At a certain moment you will notice that your snake will search very quick for a new meal … this can be right after his first prey and sometimes few days after being fed. This will give you an indication that you must increase the amount of feeding. You can give larger or bigger prey, but you also can give 2 prey at the same time (one by one, with a few minutes interval). It's even good to give more smaller prey then one large prey, because of his digestion.
Follow these basics and very important: observe !.
I am sure you will see that the amount of pinkey's aren't wasted.
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Our corn snake is 5 months old
we have had it for 3 days, we were told it would sleep alot, but how much
is alot, it goes in it's hide or burrows in it's shredded aspen and only
comes out to feed or when we take it out to handle it, is it just adjusting
to it's bigger vivarium and it's new home.
I never heard the expression that a young snake would sleep a lot. It
is difficult to see if a snake is sleeping because she can not close it's
eyes. On the other hand a snake will rest a lot to avoid burning to much
fat. When a snake is resting it will try to do it in a well protected
area … shelter, burrow in the ground, or other hiding places.
Snakes will come out when they are hungry and also during the night to
explore their environment.
The things that happen in your case are normal behaviour. It is a young
snake and by nature will hide a much as possible, not becoming a prey
for other perpetrators.
In this stage, don't handle your snake to much and give it time to adapt
to the new environment. It's good to read that you provided some hiding
places.
I know it can be a little bit disappointed when you don't see your snake
very often, but I can assure you that when your snake feels secure and
adapted to it's new world, the future will bring you much joy and pretty
moments to watch. On the other hand, disturbing your snake to much, resulting
in stress, only will give problems as feeding problems, maybe regurgitation
and very often results in a very shy snake.
Be confident and let nature, your snakes nature do it's job.
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One of my two snakes escaping
through were the light wire goes.it got out 5 times once we lost it for
3 weeks, everything i put over the holes it just moved , you can hear
it bang at it, trying to get out any ideas?
Corn snake are the Houdini's in snake world, and when they found a hole
they remember and try again and again and again.
One of the best solutions is to close the hole with some silicon. You
can find them in tubes. Look for the type to glue aquariums because they
dry very quickly. If not use the other ones (dry-time +/- 24 hrs). I added
a photo so you can see that I use the same system and whenever you want
to remove the cable you easily can cut away the silicon.
Put your snakes during the 24 hrs dry-time in another box. This would
prevent them to try to escape when the silicon isn't dry … remember,
they remember where the hole was.
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My cornsnake was attacked by the
feeder mouse and pulled some of the scales off his back my question is
what can i do to help him out please email me back.
Don't be worried to much, because this is one example of nature's laws.
Still in nature, this wouldn't happen as frequently as in captivity, because
the snake can flee, where in captivity, the snake will be limited in space.
As you know, your snake will shed and replace the old skin. This will
result that after few shedding the scales will be restored and depending
on the damage maybe leave some marks.
You may have noticed in my site that one of my snakes had an operation
and was cut +/- 2 inch throughout some scales. Today, after 3 shedding
it is almost impossible to find the scar.
You ask what you can do to help him out. Two answers:
Be sure that your snake stays in a very clean environment. Remove faeces
immediately! Clean and replace the water bowl every two days! I don't
have a picture of the damage but you can leave the snake in it's cage.
When you notice very heavy damage (with blood marks), I would advice to
put her in a sterile cage. (Cage, newspaper on the floor, water bowl and
a hiding place) but this is only necessary if you thing there will be
risk of inflammation. I also would advice to put some disinfectant on
the wound. I use "isobithadine". It is the yellow-red stuff
people use when children have small surface wounds … it doesn't burn.
The second solution, more preventive: Try to feed your snake dead prey.
This will eliminate the risk of injuries.
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